Friday, September 25, 2009

Caraquet, New Brunswick

From Ste Anne de Monts we continued along the south coast of the Gaspe Peninsula (not that there is much choice as there are no interior roads.) On the way we drove past several large wind farms and we inspected 3 lighthouses including La Martre, (built of wooden shingles and dating from 1906) and Pointe-a-la-Renommee where in 1904 Marconi established the first maritime radio station in North America.

We stayed the night in Perce.  Rocher Perce is a dramatic off shore rock, with as its name suggests an arch cut through by the sea.. Suddenly we met other tourists - at least 5 busloads - one all the way from Tennessee. O.K. not quite Valley of the Kings, but very different from the solitude we have had. The attraction in Perce is whale watching and gannets nesting on an off shore island.

Our next overnight stop was in New Richmond at a delightful motel on a cliff overlooking the bay a little pine lined cabin with a cottage garden in front. Even though the Internet was flaky the ambience was 3 star and the proprietors delightful even offering us home grown herbs.

Yesterday we crossed the bridge into New Brunswick and suddenly English was the lingua franca. It didn't last and we are back in Francaphone territory, but no worries as Bill has been complimented on his French!. This area of New Brunswick is inhabited by descendants of the Acadians. (The Acadians were the French settlers deported from Nova Scotia in 1755. However in 2003, the Queen issued a proclamation apologising for the wrongs done to their ancestors by  the British Crown)  Nearly every house flies the Acadian flag (a tricolour with a gold star in the top left)

A lot of the coastal land is saltwater marshes much favoured by migratory birds and mosquitoes. Today we went to the museum - Village des Acadiens - think Coal Creek or Swan Hill - a collection of buildings dating from 1770 to 1936. Covering an area of 900 acres it includes several working farms, but at this time of the year the farming has gone into hibernation. There was still plenty of interest and we spent all morning wandering around.


We finished the day by finding another old - 1856 wooden lighthouse - Ile de Miscou. It is still in use. We then walked around the board walk peat bog interpretive trail. Peat is a big industry here. It was very interesting but the wrong season to see the bog orchids in flower.


Rocher Perce


La Martre Lighthouse


Pointe-a-la-Renommee Lighthouse


Still looking for Fall Colour


The boatbuilder at Paspebiac - a museum of the cod fishing industry  Fishing was established by a Jersey Island entrepreneur in about 1763.  It was an industry run by barter -  he sold the fishermen their necessities and bought their fish, but as he set all the prices the fishermen were always in debt.


Auberge Le Cachet, New Richmond


View from Auberge Le Cachet


Kitchen in Village des Acadiens museum


Farm at the Acadian museum


Patchwork in the Acadian museum


3 comments:

  1. It all looks very beautiful. (Or are you just not photographing the ugly bits?)

    ReplyDelete
  2. It's soo nice to see your lovely photos...
    esther

    ReplyDelete
  3. It sounds like you are having a lovely time, and finally starting to see some glimpses of fall colour, judging by trees surrounding the farm above.
    Jenny

    ReplyDelete