Thursday, May 30, 2013

Kutaisi,Western Georgia, 29th May, 2013

Well since I last posted we have driven up the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi near the  High Caucasus. Although the road through to the countries north of Georgia is mentioned by Strabo and other Greek historians it was not until 1793 or thereabouts that Catherine the Great ordered a proper road be constructed. However there are at present some sections of unbelievably bad road. 

Our first stop was at Ananauri, a 17thC fortified church which has some fine carved stone decorations on the external walls but the interior was largely white washed by the Russians. We carried onto Gudauri, a ski resort. The mountain scenery was spectacular although the erosion from overgrazing by sheep is a worry (We saw several flocks of sheep on the road.The dogs are terrific - keeping the flock together and standing guard against predators.) 

Eventually we reached Kazbegi - close to the Russian border. Bill and Jaba our guide hiked the 500m up to the Gergeti church. (I went by 4 wheel drive taxi - a very rough ride!)

Tuesday we drove back down the Georgian Military Highway and then turned west to Gori. Near Gori is the cave city of Uplistkhe which dates back into antiquity. I only read the guidebook tonight and it says access is for the fit and able. It was a scramble but I got there. After lunch we toured the Stalin museum. Gori was his birthplace. The museum is in a monumental Italianate building. We liked his chess set and were surprised he had a slide rule! 


Tonight we are staying in Kutaisi in the Rcheuli Palace hotel where our room is at least 6m square with a 4m ceiling. We found some shops nearby and bought ourselves Georgian hot dogs for about 75 cents and they were excellent with a bottle of Georgian wine. 

English is not widely spoken but we manage. The cars are a fascinating mixture. Mostly LHD but some RHD. Murad's Mercedes which we are in, is LHD but the speedo is in miles. Mercedes are very common. I find the International secondhand car market fascinating

We spent Wednesday touring around Kutaisi. This is the area where Jason came looking for the Golden Fleece and where much of the archeological finds of archaic gold objects have been found
 The Rcheuli hotel in Kutaisi
The hotel is in one end of an huge derelict building which stretches along a whole block.
 The fortified church of Ananauri
 Some of the stone carvings on Ananuari church.
Charming unusual angels on Ananauri church.
 One of many flocks of sheep and assorted animals on the road to Kazbegi.
 Snow covered peaks near Gudauri - a ski resort.
 A Soviet mural celebrating 200 years since the Treaty of Gurgievsk. Mother Russia has the child Georgia between her knees.
 A beer sign in Kazbegi.
 I wondered if this sheep outside the restaurant where we had lunch was destined for the cooking pot.
 You can just see the Gergeti Trinity church on the hill 500m above Kazbegi.
 You might have realised I have a soft spot for old stone carvings
Lots of wildflowers but I don't know their names.
A view of Uplistike cave city. It was a trading city by at least the 5thC BC. Later it prospered as it lay on the silk road.  But earthquakes and wars took their toll over the centuries and it is hard to imagine 20,000 people living here..
 
 Inside the 9th-10th C church which survived the Mongol raids although 5000 monks were killed.
A modern icon in the church at Uplistsikhe.
  Gori, the birthplace of Stalin seems to forgiven him more than other places.
The stove in Stalin's railway carriage - he did not like flying.
 The church at Gelati where David the Builder is buried. He was a great king in the 12thC.
 Some of the old frescoes at Gelati. I love the long beard on the left figure. .
 A priest in Gelati church.
 The famous mosaic in Gelati. Only the top half survived a major eathquake so the bottom half is now painted.
Modern frescoes at Motsameta. David and Constantine  (on the right) were brothers killed by the Arabs in the 720s for refusing to convert to Islam.
 Green plums, strawberries and raspberries in Kutaisi market The raspberries were ~$2/kg.
 Georgian food is very tasty and there were lots of spices for sale in the market.
  Buying lunch in an excellent kebab cafe
The Cave of Prometheus is well set up with tasteful lighting and a good route past some spectacular formations. Not everyone agrees this is the site of the legend but it is a great cave.

Monday, May 27, 2013

Tbilisi, May 26th, 2013

It is now Sunday May 26th which is Georgia's National Day and so we saw the Fly Over and very low it was too. We have been serious tourists these last three days. We started off  on Friday morning  by exploring Tbilisi mostly on foot  and then in the afternoon we drove out to Mtskheta which was an earlier capital of Georgia.

On Saturday we drove first to Sighnaghi and as we were in the wine growing region we had lunch and tried the wine which we found very quaffable. Needless to say we visited another church as well as a market. 

This morning we woke up to pouring rain and set off to drive  to Davit Gareja, a cave monastery established in the 6thC by St David one of the Syrian fathers who came to Georgia at that time. The road was in a bad way and we were glad we were not in a bus.. However enough of text without pictures so here are some photos.
Looking over some of the new buildings in Tbilisi. I think the mushroom roofed one is the Palace of Justice.
The 13thC Metekhi church
Loved this letterbox.
The Tamada or toastmaster. Georgians are big on toasts at banquets always with wine and the whole glass must be drunk in one go.
Inside Sioni Cathedral. The Georgian church is really alive. All sorts of people, old and young, men and women are continually popping in to light a candle and kiss a few icons, although I thought the toddler who had a candle in one hand and a toy gun in the other had not quite got the picture!
One of dozens of lovely balconies.
Georgians have a good sense of humour.
The archangel striking the clock at midday.
Remember Jason and the search for the Golden Fleece. He came to Colchis in Georgia and the State museum in Tbilisi has a fantastic collection of exquisite gold work from the local archeological digs most of it more than 2000 years old.

Wild roses
Sveti Tskhoveli cathedral in Mtskheta - an ancient church in an ancient city and a former capital of Georgia.
Looking down on Sighnaghi
Cherries are in season and I bought some from this man. The sausage like food is churchkhela made by threading walnuts almonds and raisins on a string, dipping them in flour and then into simmering grape juice repeatedly before hanging the up to dry. I have not tried them yet.
Wine has been made in Georgia for thousands of years and traditionally in clay pots buried in the ground.
Recognise this man? He was Georgian.
A Georgian barbeque.
I am not sure if this is Gremi or Alaverdi - it was a long day.
A cheese lady in the market. Cheese is a staple.
The vegetables are excellent.
A shepherd with his flock which we had to drive through on the road.

Lots and lots of wildflowers.
The entrance to a monastery at Davit Gareja
Some of the cave cells at the monastery of Davit Gareja.
An unexpected road in Tbilisi. There was a lot of traffic so it was a bit sad we did not quite fit it in the photo!