Tartu, Estonia

June 5th

Yesterday we went on an excursion to Paldiski which was a Soviet nuclear and naval base.It was the most important submarine base for the whole Russian fleet and had 16000 personnel stationed here and was closed to outsiders. After independence the barbwire disappeared and Estonians could visit. Most of the Soviet barracks have disappeared and after inspecting the cliffs along the Baltic coast we looked for wildflowers We found wild strawberries and a few others but nothing very spectacular. It was a lovely sunny afternoon so after our return to Tallinn we sat in the sun and watched the  passing parade.

In contrast this morning it was gray and wet but we set off to Tartu with Ivo. Tartu is a university town founded in 1632 by the Swedish king. On the way we stopped in Kasmu or Captain's village where there was a school famous for graduating sea captains.
There is an interesting little museum.On then to  the Onion road. There are three villages of Old Believers, Apparently in the 17thC Peter the Great (or his bishops) tried to reform the orthodox church and these people clinging to the old ways settled here. They salt and dry fish and grow onions. We stopped for lunch and had onion pie followed by pancakes with marmalade (actually cherry jam)

This hotel is very nice. We have a walk in shower, but the original room was accessed by a narrow spiral staircase which I would have found impossible.

Waterfall near Tallinn

Cliffs along the Baltic coast

Wild strawberries

Sunday afternoon strollers

 Relaxed guard dog at the museum in Kasmu.

Some of the eclectic maritime items in the museum.

Old sealing boat made from a single log.Seals are now protected.

Old loom

More artefacts.

Lily of the Valley. It was a best seller in the flower market.

Showing the beds of onions and other crops

Gazebo by one of the canals giving access to Lake Peipsi

An Old Believer's prayer hall. They have no churches or priests.

Tallinn on foot

June 3rd

I was a bit worried about my sticks on the cobblestones of the old town, but we walked for 4 hours without incident (Although I was pleased Estonia has installed non medieval footpaths -UNESCO was cross!)

We met our guide Vaiko(?) at 9,30 and took a taxi up to the new town on Toompea Hill and walked back to the old city which is world heritage listed.Last night we had explored a little bit while we were looking for a cafe. There were plenty of cafes to choose from and no shortage of massage parlours either. The cafe we chose had the most delicious black bread. 
Our guide told us of Estonia's centuries of occupation starting with the Danes in the 13thC and including Germans, Swedes and Russians. Estonians and Finns and Hungarians arrived in Europe about 3500 B.C. and their languages are related. Our guide was formally an English teacher so easy to understand. Estonia is doing quite well economically and the unemployment rate is only about 5,5 %

Today's selection of photographs::-

Typical buildings

One of the towers in the city walls.

Outside a steak restaurant featuring Australian beef !

One of many steeples

 Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox cathedral. Our guide told us how prior to 1991 four of her fellow students were expelled because they were seen at church.

Estonians are not impressed by Russian beggars outside their church

The organ inside an old Lutheran church. Noble families were buried inside the church until Catherine the Great forbade the practice. 

Note the Hanseatic League flag on the left. After Catherine's edict the bodies buried under the floor in this church were removed but the elaborately carved family crests were  placed on the walls.

Another fine building.

Peaceful courtyard once belonging to a Dominican monastery but now a museum..

Flower sellers

Artist 'en plein air'. With the passing tourist traffic he should do well.

Fair Isle socks which would be a challenge to knit.

Apart from fair Isle knitting there were beautiful linen  table mats but instead of embroidering the designs they were painted on..

Tallinn, Estonia

June 2nd
Today was a very leisurely start as the Tallinn ferry did not leave until 1.30, but the driver arrived at 11.30 in a full size tourist coach just for the two of us!!

The ferry terminal is fairly new  and the ferry we were on held several hundred passengers and makes the 2 hour trip six times a day and there are two other companies making the same crossing.

Just a few photos

We were in Comfort class which was quiet, perhaps too quiet, but there were free nibbles and tea, coffee and soft drinks.

Salad Bar in Comfort Class

Passengers stock up on beer in Estonia as it is about half the 

Finnish price,

Different atmosphere in tourist class

Much busier

First view of Tallinn

Some views around the old town.

And finally the front door of our hotel.

Helsinki

June 1st

A full plane but otherwise uneventful flight, but when we arrived in Helsinki there was no sign of the car and driver we were expecting to meet us. However we got a taxi to the Glo Art Hotel and they were expecting us.

We thought we would go for a walk and find where to catch the tram to our canal boat ride on Friday. So far so good and on the way we found a Nepalese restaurant and a supermarket. The Nepalese restaurant was very good for dinner that evening but on Friday morning when we walked to the tram stop we could not  workout why the #3 tram never arrived although it showed on the arrival board. Eventually someone told us there was a royal visit and the roads were closed. Just as well we started early!  We saw the brass band and presumeably the royal yacht but not the  Norwegian Royals.. 

Now just a few   photos of the canal boat ride which took us around some of the islands where wealthy Finns have their summer cottages.

Thought this might be the Royal Norwegian yacht

All the crew lined up on deck.

Finnish icebreakers who can punch through 8 metres of ice.

Typical summer retreat on one of the islands.

Sea Urchins for sale in the market.

Art Deco building.

It was a very cold and intermittently wet day.

One of my favourite shops Marimekko, but I resisted buying any fabric. It was fairly easy not to shop as it is not given away!