Tartu, Estonia

June 5th

Yesterday we went on an excursion to Paldiski which was a Soviet nuclear and naval base.It was the most important submarine base for the whole Russian fleet and had 16000 personnel stationed here and was closed to outsiders. After independence the barbwire disappeared and Estonians could visit. Most of the Soviet barracks have disappeared and after inspecting the cliffs along the Baltic coast we looked for wildflowers We found wild strawberries and a few others but nothing very spectacular. It was a lovely sunny afternoon so after our return to Tallinn we sat in the sun and watched the  passing parade.

In contrast this morning it was gray and wet but we set off to Tartu with Ivo. Tartu is a university town founded in 1632 by the Swedish king. On the way we stopped in Kasmu or Captain's village where there was a school famous for graduating sea captains.
There is an interesting little museum.On then to  the Onion road. There are three villages of Old Believers, Apparently in the 17thC Peter the Great (or his bishops) tried to reform the orthodox church and these people clinging to the old ways settled here. They salt and dry fish and grow onions. We stopped for lunch and had onion pie followed by pancakes with marmalade (actually cherry jam)

This hotel is very nice. We have a walk in shower, but the original room was accessed by a narrow spiral staircase which I would have found impossible.

Waterfall near Tallinn

Cliffs along the Baltic coast

Wild strawberries

Sunday afternoon strollers

 Relaxed guard dog at the museum in Kasmu.

Some of the eclectic maritime items in the museum.

Old sealing boat made from a single log.Seals are now protected.

Old loom

More artefacts.

Lily of the Valley. It was a best seller in the flower market.

Showing the beds of onions and other crops

Gazebo by one of the canals giving access to Lake Peipsi

An Old Believer's prayer hall. They have no churches or priests.