Not quite Marco Polo: Chon-Kemin, Kyrgyzstan, 5th May

From Cholpan Ata we drove to Karakol stopping on the way to visit the Przewalski Memorial and museum. Nicolai was the Tsarist Russian Army Officer who made 4 long exploration journeys in Central Asia and into Siberia, Tibet and Western China between 1860 and 1888. Apart from the famous horse he found lots of new flora and fauna.

Karakol has a lot of gingerbread wooden Russian houses shaded by huge white poplars. We stayed at the Green Yard hotel, a nice homely place which had reasonable Wifi and a corner shop which sold beer. Kyrgzystan is a great place for jam. We had 6 varieties at breakfast and the locals even put it in their tea.

May 3rd we went to the Dejety Oguz gorge or Seven Bulls Gorge - red sandstone cliffs. Driving further up the Karakol Valley we came to alpine meadows, but we are just a week or two early for the spring flowers. However it was a lovely place with lots of horses and some flocks of sheep and goats.

May 4th we started by visiting the animal market in Karakol. No donkey carts these days. The animals come in cars, trucks and even the occasional taxi and the traditional white felt hats of the men are now largely replaced by baseball caps. A little later we passed a much smaller market about 30 km down the road where there was plenty of animal-drawn transport. The first section in Karakol is sheep and goats. Another section is for cattle and horses with far more of the latter. Some prices: twin black lambs, 3,500 som or ~$70. a fat sheep about $200, a cow $800-$1400 and horses from $1400 to $2400 so they are not cheap. All sales are by private negotiation but it looked as if a lot of animals were not sold.

Our next stop was for a demonstration of eagle hunting, but the rabbit was lucky and got away three times.

We drove along the shore of Lake Issy Kul to Kochkor where we stayed with a local family. We had a huge room where the walls were covered with embroideries and patchwork and there was a large pile of quilts in the corner. In Kochkor we visited a felt making cooperative involving 200 local women. One of the very common patterns is Heracles (of Greek mythology). Alexander's shadow is very long. The Russian word for walnuts is Greek nuts The nuts are native to Central Asia and it was Alexander or his generals who cultivated them in Greece.

May 5th was a short drive to Chon-Kemin through mountain scenery. Lunch was a picnic by a stream (there was a picnic table!) and we are staying in a guesthouse which has Wifi. but I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

Typical Krygyz felt floor rug. About 6ft x 8 ft would take 1 woman about 8 months to make.

19thC Russian Gingerbread house in Karakol.

Pastoral scene in the Karakol Valley. There are horses everywhere and the shepherds are all mounted.

Although spring is almost here there are hardly any flowers yet. My eyes thought these flowers were pink but my camera thought differently.

I am glad I was not driving over these bridges in the Karakol Valley, but our driver had plenty of icons (Russian? on the dash of his car) so we were O.K.

Djety Oguz Canyon or Seven Bulls.

Fat tail sheep in Karakol market

The black lamb just visible in the centre would set you back 3500 som or about $70.

Waiting for an offer!

Mare and foal on offer.l

Or does this one appeal more?

Talgarbek, an eagle hunter with Tumara his eagle. She is 10 years old and he took her from the nest before she had flown.and trained her.

A new profession for Bill.

Tumara makes a dive, but the rabbit escapes.

Talgarbek with the rabbit in one hand and Tumara on the other arm.

Simple Russian Orthodox church in Karakol.

Feltmaking in Kochkor The wool is teased and then spread out on a reed mat. A pattern of different coloured wools is added and the whole is then rolled up and wet with hot water and then pressed. It was Sunday and both restaurants in town were closed so the woman in the picture quickly rustled up a nice lunch for us.