After returning to RN7 we continued South. Although the country was once forested, it is now all open grassland and there is considerable soil erosion. There was very little traffic on the road, but we did come across a large herd of zebu. They were probably off to the market in Andalavao. It can take up to 30 days to walk a mob from the far south to the market.
Ihosy was the only sizeable town we passed through, but there was an enormous queue at the bank so we gave up the idea of changing money.
The granite country gave way to weathered sandstone and soon we were in ISALO National Park. We stayed at Relais de la Reine, a lovely French run hotel. Every room had a private terrace looking out over extensive gardens and beyond to the weird sandstone shapes of the park. Another plus for the hotel is the excellent French meals they serve.
On Wednesday in the nearby town of Ranohira we picked up a local guide Rolland and walked into the canyons of the park. Although we had made an early start, it was very hot, but we saw lots of lemurs and chameleons. One female with a baby on her back was very anxious to get into every photograph! The cool leafy canyons complete with waterfalls and swimming pools were welcome respite from the hot dry plains.
Not far south of Isalo is the wild west town of Ilakaka. In 1995 there were only about 5 houses in the area, but a farmer ploughing noticed some coloured stones and took them into Ranohira. By chance there was a gem buyer in town who gave him 5 million ariary for them and the rush was on. Now there are thousands of people, casinos, brothels, boutiques and above every second door, the sign SAPHIR and the buyers sitting with their scales. It was also the only place I noticed the police armed with AK47s (or similar).
This morning we drove to Tulear passing first through open country with lots of Bismarckia nobilis palms and then remnants of forest with lemurs in the trees.. Closer to Tulear we saw our first baobab trees as well as the elaborate painted tombs of the Mahafaly people.
In Tulear we caught the plane to Morondava. The airport was relaxed without a lot of fuss about bottles or water.
In Morondava, the road from the airport into town is unbelievably bad, only passable in a 4WD. However we are staying in the Baobab Cafe hotel which has A/C, TV, swimming pool and as is often the case, good French meals!
Zebu cart in the village near RN7 where we left the minibus
RN7
Zebu herd on the way to market in Ambalavao
Picnic under the gum trees. If it wasn't for the French style mile post it could be in Australia, particularly since our minibus is parked on the left of the road. It was secondhand Japanese and was right hand drive!
Boy with chameleon beside the road
Gardens at Relais de la Reine
Painted faces are the fashion in this area of Madagascar
Brown lemur in Isalo National Park
A brown lemur refreshes itself at a waterhole
Vivi our guide and Rolland the local guide behind him
The bracelet of cabochon sapphires in the centre has all the colours of the rainbow. Only 15% of Madagascar sapphires are blue. This was part of an order for Tiffany's, the sapphires weighed 19+ carats and the price was 2500 euros.The zircon bracelet in the foreground was priced at 500 euros.
A boutique in Ilakaka
Washing gravel for sapphires in the creek at Ilakaka
An hotel in Andranovory. THB - three Horse Beer seemed to be the most widespread brand.
Hawkers selling snacks to long distance bus passengers. Apart from fried cakes and peanuts, there were also small grilled fish.
Baobabs not far from Tulear
Scenes from the life of the deceased on a Malafaly tomb, or maybe not as I am not sure how the Titanic was part of Malagasy life.
Truly wonderful photos, I am so enjoying your travel blog. Keep it up.
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