We left Acireale and drove Southwest to Caltagirone. It was Sunday and the streets were full of old and young men in their Sunday best. There were dozens of nuns, but few other women. The town is famous for ceramics and there was showroom after showroom, but I found them easy to resist. The old town is at the top of the hill and the Santa Maria del Monte stairway of 142 steps dating from 1608 connects it with the newer lower town. All the risers of the steps are faced with Majolica tiles.
It is not so much further to Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana but on the way poor Umberto (our driver) had to negotiate a U turn in a village on a narrow crowded road full of Sunday drivers. The villa is huge and no expense was spared when it was built with mosaic floors in all the rooms - scenes in the public and family rooms and geometric in the slaves areas.
From Piazza Amerina we drove across the island to Palermo. First there was rolling agricultural land with citrus and other orchards and plantations of prickly pear, whose fruit is popular. There were also flocks of sheep, but as we got closer to Palermo, the country became more rugged. We are staying in Hotel Sirenetta on the beach at Isola delle Femmine. The beach is covered with rows of bathing boxes, like peas in a pod and they do not improve the look of the beach.
On Monday we have toured Palermo.including Monreale cathedral built in 1172. It is huge and covered in Byzantine mosaics and the first impression is WOW. Next door the cloisters of the Benedictine abbey are just beautiful.
In Palermo the bougainvillea and lantana are in full bloom and also the oleanders which are often grown as standard trees,
Tuesday was Claudio guiding us around the Greek temples at Agrigento. There are ruins of at least 4 temples dating from the 5thC B.C. all built of red sandstone and monumental in size. When Agrigento came under Byzantine domination in the 4thC A.D. all the decorations (statues of gods etc were removed) and so only the bare bones remain. but their size and situation are very impressive.
Wednesday we drove first to Principe de Corleone vineyard near Corleone in the heart of mafia territory. They have 100 hectares of vines and a very modern efficient operation. They produce 42 types of wine from a big range of grape varieties and export to America, Europe and Japan but not Australia. We had a most civilised wine tasting and a beautiful lunch of typical Sicilian food. The involtini of thin slices of eggplant wrapped around rice and flat leaf parsley with a little fresh tomato was particularly delicious. We elected to buy the young red which was very quaffable and at only 4 euros a bottle surprisingly cheap. In fact the most expensive wine was about 10 euro. We also tried the Grappa which tastes like meths.
Our next stop was in Erice, founded by the Phoenicians and perched on top of a rocky outcrop 700 metres above the plain. As you can imagine the views from the walls were stunning. The town itself is a rabbit warren of narrow stone paved streets with a church every few blocks.
It is not so much further to Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana but on the way poor Umberto (our driver) had to negotiate a U turn in a village on a narrow crowded road full of Sunday drivers. The villa is huge and no expense was spared when it was built with mosaic floors in all the rooms - scenes in the public and family rooms and geometric in the slaves areas.
From Piazza Amerina we drove across the island to Palermo. First there was rolling agricultural land with citrus and other orchards and plantations of prickly pear, whose fruit is popular. There were also flocks of sheep, but as we got closer to Palermo, the country became more rugged. We are staying in Hotel Sirenetta on the beach at Isola delle Femmine. The beach is covered with rows of bathing boxes, like peas in a pod and they do not improve the look of the beach.
On Monday we have toured Palermo.including Monreale cathedral built in 1172. It is huge and covered in Byzantine mosaics and the first impression is WOW. Next door the cloisters of the Benedictine abbey are just beautiful.
In Palermo the bougainvillea and lantana are in full bloom and also the oleanders which are often grown as standard trees,
Tuesday was Claudio guiding us around the Greek temples at Agrigento. There are ruins of at least 4 temples dating from the 5thC B.C. all built of red sandstone and monumental in size. When Agrigento came under Byzantine domination in the 4thC A.D. all the decorations (statues of gods etc were removed) and so only the bare bones remain. but their size and situation are very impressive.
Wednesday we drove first to Principe de Corleone vineyard near Corleone in the heart of mafia territory. They have 100 hectares of vines and a very modern efficient operation. They produce 42 types of wine from a big range of grape varieties and export to America, Europe and Japan but not Australia. We had a most civilised wine tasting and a beautiful lunch of typical Sicilian food. The involtini of thin slices of eggplant wrapped around rice and flat leaf parsley with a little fresh tomato was particularly delicious. We elected to buy the young red which was very quaffable and at only 4 euros a bottle surprisingly cheap. In fact the most expensive wine was about 10 euro. We also tried the Grappa which tastes like meths.
Our next stop was in Erice, founded by the Phoenicians and perched on top of a rocky outcrop 700 metres above the plain. As you can imagine the views from the walls were stunning. The town itself is a rabbit warren of narrow stone paved streets with a church every few blocks.
Looking up the Santa Maria del Monte stairway in Caltagirone
An example of the ceramic tiles on the risers
The mosaics at villa Romana include depictions of all sorts of animals. I particularly liked this tiger.
Hunting mosaic at villa Romana. The dogs were imported from Afghanistan and some of their descendants still live on Mt Etna.
View of the Benedictine cloisters next to Monreale cathedral.
The capitals of the cloister columns are all different and their shafts are decorated with geometric mosaics.
Don't you love the crocheted ear muffs to protect the horses from sunburn.
Palermo cathedral was built in the 12thC in Norman style, but the Arab craftsmen gave it a different twist.
Byzantine mosaic of Christ Pantocrator in the Palatine chapel, Palermo.
Typical Arabic geometric mosaic decoration in Palermo cathedral.
Pirates are an unusual decoration for the New gate in Palermo dating from 1583..
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The ranks of bathing boxes on the beach at Isola del Femmine do not improve the beach
Prickly pear flowers. A speciality of Erice is marzipan fruits including prickly pear.
The temple of Concordia at Agrigento. It has survived largely intact because it was used as a church.
Yet another greek vase in the museum at Agrigento
Bust of a handsome unknown Roman in the museum at Agrigenteo
Norman castle at Erice.
Near the Trapani gate, Erice
The photos make me think about doing this part of the world ourselves - but up until now, it hasn't been of much interest...
ReplyDeleteHello! Lovely photos and most enjoyable to view! Your photo "Typical Arabic geometric mosaic decoration in Palermo cathedral", is this not more like to be Cosmati stone work as appose to Arabic?
ReplyDelete