Saturday, January 16, 2010

Nosy Be

Sunday October 12th, 2008

Last Thursday we flew to Nosy Be, a small island off the North West coast of Madagascar. It has an International Airport and many European tourists come to the resorts on the island. It was immediately apparent that the island has benefited - it looks more prosperous - there are more bicycles for starters.

The Hotel Vanilla is on the beach and the thatched rooms are surrounded by lovely gardens. After the sea breeze came in, we walked down to the beach - a crescent of reasonable sand with a headland of black basaltic rocks at each end.

Some locals were exercising horses on the beach. Walking back to the hotel along the road we passed mango and jack fruit trees as well as Ylang Ylang plantations. These Indonesian trees are grown for their essential oil used in perfumery.

On Friday we went by catamaran to the small island of Nosy Komba famous for its semi tame black lemurs. Actually only the males are black, the females are brown with white faces. Apart from fishing and looking after tourists, the local villagers do Richelieu work and the designs incorporate lemurs and chameleons.


The catamarans were owned by a Frenchman who seemed to be building a thriving business. He said they were trying to get the hospital going again on Nosy Be. It does seem that the few remaining French take the lead in trying to develop the country.

Yesterday after we flew to Tana we visited the craft market. Stall after stall was selling marquetry, carved zebu horn, raffia bags and hats, Richelieu and coloured embroidery as well as semi precious stones.

This morning we visited Ambohimanga, the original capital of the Merina Royal family. The Merina from the Highlands conquered most of the island in the early nineteenth century and their Rova, or fortress palace is here. From this hilltop village there is a great view of the Hauts plateaux and Tana in the distance.

Our time in Madagascar is over and my next post will be from Reunion.


Looking down to the beach from the Hotel Vanilla


Entertainment in the Bistro at the Hotel Vanilla

Ylang Ylang trees - an important crop on Nosy Be.

Frangipani is actually a native of Mexico, but it snuck in here as it is one of my favourite flowers. I had it in my wedding bouquet.

 School children relaxing on the beach at Nosy Be.

Outrigger canoe at Nosy Be.

 Almost becalmed fishing boat.

Black lemurs

 She looked so serious, but I am not sure what she is trying to achieve.

Malagasy people are experts at weaving raffia baskets (and hats)

Richelieu tablecloth - spot the lemur in the design.

Rusting machinery formerly used in the sugar cane industry. Four years ago the rum distillery was closed because the management was corrupt and now zebu graze on the fields.

Instead of the distillery, a large Protestant church is under construction.


The gateway at the entrance to Ambohimanga. Forty slaves used to roll the large stone across the gateway every night.

Part of the old summer palace of the Merina Kings.

In the Tsarasaoitra Bird Sanctuary, Antananarivo



View from the hotel in Tana.

A tyre repair workshop


A Halal butcher in Tana

Fancy a pizza?


 The lamba is the most distinctive item of Malagasy clothing. They usually have a Malagasy proverb or words of wisdom in a box along the bottom. In the market, I caused great consternation, by asking for a French translation of the mottoes of the lambas I was buying. This particular one has the phrase "MAMY NY MODY" which means "Home sweet home"

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Antananarivo

Thursday October 8th, 2008

On Monday afternoon we caught the plane from Morondava to Tana. It was noticeably cooler in Tana, but what really caught my eye in the Airport was the list of duty free items you are allowed export.

It included:

2 lbs of jewels, 
2 lbs of onions,
4 lbs of vanilla, 
10 lbs of meat 
20 lbs of seafood.

I can recommend the Palissandre hotel in Tana. A feature of the hotel rooms is the lovely polished palisander wood - similar to rosewood. Breakfast on the terrace looking out over the city was another plus.

However no rest for tourists and soon we were on our way to Marazevo to visit the private reserve at Pereyras. It specialises in chameleons and geckos, but also has frogs and butterflies.

 Lunch in Moramanga was at the Coq d'Or, a Chinese restaurant which served frog's legs and spring rolls and chicken in tamarind - all very good.
Although Sherritt, the Canadian company have a big nickel project near here  we didn't see it, but then I guess most of our group are probably not into mining!

We stayed in the Eulophiella Lodge - thatched cottages in lovely gardens and if you think you can cope with chillies, you could try theirs. They left any others I have tried for dead! Our nocturnal walk in the rain forest was not a rip roaring success. We spent two hours stumbling in the dark and failed to spot any wildlife.

On Wednesday we visited Andasibe National Park. It was pleasantly cool walking in the rain forest and we heard and saw lots of Indri. Apart from the Indri there were also common brown lemurs and birds including rollers, kingfisher and drongos. At the old railway station in Andasibe, the 1994 and 2007 cyclone flood levels were marked and they were metres above the level of the platform.


Chameleons at Marazevo.


 Chameleons have very long tongues, but I was a bit slow and this one's has almost disappeared back into its mouth.


An example of a brightly coloured day gecko which makes absolutely no attempt to camouflage itself.


In contrast it is hard to believe these "dried leaves" are actually living creatures.

Comet moths which are about six inches across.

The tomato frog is a change from the usual green frog.

 An Indri - these three foot high lemurs keep in touch with an eerie wailing song similar to the sounds of whales. There are none in captivity.

A common brown lemur. The different species live at different height in the tree canopy. Most prefer to avoid the ground, but can leap many metres from branch to branch.


A white epiphytic orchid in Andasibe National Park.


Some of the metal souvenirs fashioned by handicapped people.

A view of Antananarivo.

One of the ubiquitous 2CV taxis in Tana.

Breakfast on the terrace of the Hotel Palissandre.

No shortage of bananas.

A familiar advertisement.


Another street scene in Tana.