We left Morondava early on Friday morning for the eight hour 4WD drive to the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. Even before we left the town proper we could see (and feel) why we were in an SUV! We drove through rice paddies and all the waterways were clogged with water hyacinths. About 15 kms from town we reached the famous Avenue of the Baobabs. They are enormous trees. On our morning walk at home in Ashburton (Melbourne, Australia) we pass a baobab tree. It is very rare to see one in Melbourne and although it looks healthy it is only a tiddler.
As we continued, the country got drier and drier until eventually after about 4 hours we came to the Tsirbirina River. The roll on roll off ferries are not quite like what we are used to - much simpler! I, for one, was glad I did not have to drive the vehicle onto the ferry. However in true Malagasy style it was done with good humour and reasonable efficiency. Crossing the river took over an hour as we had to dodge around the sandbars.
Belo Tsirbirina is quite a large town on the north bank of the river. Its dusty main street is lined with ramshackle wooden buildings and the Mad Zebu restaurant was pretty unpretentious from the outside, but the lunch they served was fabulous. We started with an entree of three little pots of various fishy things, followed by grilled prawns and then fruit mousse and fresh fruit all washed down with delicious cold THB beer. The quote below is on the Internet, so I am not alone in my praise.
"The staff members are true professionals and this was so surprising as the city of Belo has not much to offer. Proper haute cuisine in the middle of nowhere!"
Our driver, Ronald, picked one of the white flowers we saw and I think it was an orchid. We passed through occasional villages usually with plenty of mango trees, but the roads are so poor, there is no way to get the fruit to market.
Eventually, just on dusk we arrived at Camp Croco on the bank of the Manambolo River. In spite of the river views, Camp Croco was far from my best camping experience, but in true Malagasy style, we were served a good dinner.
It was hot which encouraged an early start on Saturday morning. We began by exploring the river in pirogues - two hollowed out logs tied together and poled along. It was very peaceful as we glided past limestone cliffs and ventured into caves complete with stalactites.
We landed on the far side of the river and walked across a grassy meadow in which several lightly tethered zebu were peacefully grazing and then into the Tsingy. Tsingy means sharp and the Tsingy are narrow limestone gorges. The mixed vegetation includes some of the strange pachioderm flora and is home to lizards, chameleons and lemurs including the languid white sifakas.
Sunday morning we began the drive back to Morondava and stopped again at the Mad Zebu for another excellent lunch. When we reached the river the fun began. An arrogant Indian insisted on driving onto the ferry and parking where he fancied. It was hardly a surprise when we ran aground. The drivers took the opportunity for a quick dip in the river and eventually, the captain gave up trying to free the ferry and using his mobile phone called up another ferry. Without any fuss, the two were roped together and three vehicles driven onto the second ferry and we all sailed away.
With hard driving, Ronald made up the lost time and we reached the Avenue of Baobabs at sunset and were able to photograph the most photographed view in Madagascar. On the way into Morondava, the whole town seemed to be enjoying a Fiesta. There was a Merry Go Round and a little wooden Ferris Wheel as well as all the other usual attractions.
Monday morning, we wandered around Morondava - first down to the beach where there were several fishing boats (powered by sails and/or paddles) and a pile of fish on the sand and women sitting playing cards, and then into town where we inspected the market and then sat in the shade and watched the world go by.
A Hamerkop or hammer headed stork.
Selling grilled fish and other snacks near Morondava. This photo gives some idea of just how huge the baobab trees are.
A pretty but unidentified flower. I hope no one identifies it as a weed!
Lunch in the Mad Zebu Restaurant. Note the wooden coasters on top of the glasses and the little straw hats on the open bottles of beer - both measures designed to keep the flies away.
The kitchen of the Mad Zebu Restaurant
Pirogues on the River Manambolo
A view of the Tsingys.
A sifaka relaxes and munches his/her lunch.
Delivering beer by zebu cart in Belo Tsirbirina
Sunday street market in Belo Tsirbirina
Loading the 4 WDs onto the ferry
Lightening the load on our ferry after we were stuck on a sandbar. Note how the two ferries are roped together and then the vehicles are transferred midstream.
Typical quality of the road between Morondava and the Tsingys. If you look at the large size of this photo you will see the speedo says 75 kph.
The much photographed Avenue of the Baobabs at sunset.
One of many fishing boats returning up the creek in Morondava just before sunset.
Spare parts for sale.
The market in Morondava. It was two storey so to speak - bench height and the ground.
Seamstress in the street in Morondava
Primary school children going home for lunch in a pousse pousse, Morondava
Riverside bar in Morondava. The beer was cold and the sandy floor makes it easy to steady the chairs.
Maison Rouge is probably not quite the Moulin Rouge, but I did not try a night on the town, so I can't comment from first hand.
